The Pacific Coast | 29.7.18 – 5.8.18

After spending a night in the busy, loud and fairly unlovely city of Guayaquil, we navigated the cavernous bus station and set off north. Arriving in the late afternoon, we checked in to our hostel, 'Viejamar', perched on the desolate coastline between Puerto Lopez and Montañita. Ambling along the deserted beach, we passed a decomposing … Continue reading The Pacific Coast | 29.7.18 – 5.8.18

Cuenca | 25.7.18 – 29.7.18

After a lovely breakfast at hostel Huasi Quñi we explored the peaceful, genteel streets of Cuenca, a laid-back Andean city in Southern Ecuador. Wandering along the fast-flowing Rio Tomebamba, we came to an impressive statue of the Inca ruler Huayna Capac. From here we made our way to the ruins of Pumapungo, the Inca settlement … Continue reading Cuenca | 25.7.18 – 29.7.18

Baños de Agua Santa | 20.7.18 – 24.7.18

After a tetchy day of travel sans caffeine we checked in to our hostel in Baños, a tourist hotspot nestled amongst a series of verdant mountains. From the sheer rock faces surrounding the town poured a series of waterfalls, while nearby Mt Tungurahua (a disconcertingly active volcano) lurked amongst the clouds. Erin had fond memories … Continue reading Baños de Agua Santa | 20.7.18 – 24.7.18

Ipiales | 15.7.18 – 16.7.18

It was dark by the time we reached Ipiales, stiff from our 9-hour coach journey. The town, which lies around 2km from the border with Ecuador, is dirty, rough and decidedly 'functional' - somewhere for travellers, truckers and immigrants to pause before leaving the country. Wandering the streets in search of dinner, we passed several … Continue reading Ipiales | 15.7.18 – 16.7.18

Popayán | 14.7.18

Heading south, our next shop was Popayán, known as the “white city” due to its many whitewashed colonial buildings - the city centre is a UNESCO world heritage site. Nestled between the Western and Central mountain ranges, Popayán is a peaceful place, home to one of Colombia's most prestigious universities and birthplace of several previous … Continue reading Popayán | 14.7.18

Salento | 10.7.18 – 12.7.18

We spent the majority of Tuesday on the winding, nauseating mountain road south from Medellín, trying not to notice the heavily armed military presence along our route. Arriving at dusk, we checked in to our basic but charming hostel, where we enjoyed hot drinks whilst sat amongst the roosters and dogs milling around the patio. … Continue reading Salento | 10.7.18 – 12.7.18